Peace and quiet in Delhi…? No really

There was a certain symmetry about finishing our trip in Delhi, and we were a lot better prepared for what must be one of the craziest cities on the planet. We flew back on the Thursday morning and I was really keen to listen to the qawwali singing at Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Aulia that evening. At…

Back to the Red Fort

Well, we weren’t going to make the same mistake twice. It had been very naive of us to turn up at the Red Fort in Delhi on a Sunday afternoon the first time we were in town. The queues had been extreme – and then we’d realised it was going to be closed on the…

It seems I have become an Indian tourist!

Finally, I can understand what it is to be an Indian tourist. We’d decided to venture down to Kanniyakumari – the southernmost point of India – and were looking forward to watching the sun set over three oceans at once. It wasn’t nearly as romantic as it sounds! The ocean was grey and choppy, there…

Making the most of our last week in India

It’s our last week in India and we’ve made our way back to the seaside, this time to Odayam beach just north of Varkala. It’s calm and quiet – just the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks. We plan to spend the next few days lazing about on the sand and cooling off…

No more Nescafe for me. Ever

Our first trip to the Indian Coffee House. We were ecstatic to discover that Kerala does real coffee, especially after I vowed I wasn’t going to drink another cup of nescafe ever again! Five cups of the strong stuff for a grand total of 40 rupees. Doesn’t get much better than that.

Speed thrills but kills

Yesterday, on the bus from Mysore to Kochi, we saw thousands of ‘Speed thrills but kills’ posters plastered along the highway, along with many more informing us that ‘Accidents bring tears, safety brings chears’ (sic). It is road safety week in India… Our bus driver, however, was having none of it. Rob and I booked…