Peace and quiet in Delhi…? No really

There was a certain symmetry about finishing our trip in Delhi, and we were a lot better prepared for what must be one of the craziest cities on the planet. We flew back on the Thursday morning and I was really keen to listen to the qawwali singing at Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Aulia that evening. At…

Back to the Red Fort

Well, we weren’t going to make the same mistake twice. It had been very naive of us to turn up at the Red Fort in Delhi on a Sunday afternoon the first time we were in town. The queues had been extreme – and then we’d realised it was going to be closed on the…

It seems I have become an Indian tourist!

Finally, I can understand what it is to be an Indian tourist. We’d decided to venture down to Kanniyakumari – the southernmost point of India – and were looking forward to watching the sun set over three oceans at once. It wasn’t nearly as romantic as it sounds! The ocean was grey and choppy, there…

Making the most of our last week in India

It’s our last week in India and we’ve made our way back to the seaside, this time to Odayam beach just north of Varkala. It’s calm and quiet – just the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks. We plan to spend the next few days lazing about on the sand and cooling off…

The art of Bikram

During my brief employment hiatus last summer I took up Bikram yoga, partly to get me out of the house, but also in the hope that it would get me fit enough for trekking in Nepal. I went a few times – which obviously didn’t sufficiently prepare me for climbing 5,000metre mountains. But it turns out…

The rules are… there ain’t no rules!

Rob quoted this scene from Grease to me after we’d gotten off the crazy coracle in Hampi. Two boats go back and forth across a narrow stretch of river… They let their passengers disembark in a fairly normal fashion. But… instead of picking up a new batch for the return journey they instead forcefully hold…